🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the family completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.